Textiles and textile-related materials constitute an important and multifaceted ___domain of material culture. From the earliest civilizations, textiles have been integral to human society, not just as functional items but also as significant symbols of identity, status, and cultural expression [1]. The production of textiles requires advanced levels of technology and expertise, encompassing various processes such as spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing. These processes are fundamental to the creation of threads and fabrics, but also extend to the making of bands, ropes, cordage, nets, felting, and basketry. The study of these materials thus provides crucial insights into the economy, technological and cultural developments, trading routes, and environmental adaptations of the societies that produced them. However, given the inherent fragile and complex nature of textiles, their study and analysis can be challenging. This makes instrumental analysis essential in the understanding, dating, and preservation of textile finds. This collection of articles in Heritage Science explores the significance of textiles, the challenges in their preservation, and the advancements in instrumental analysis that have propelled textile research forward.

Fibre identification in archaeological and historic textiles is the primary step in their study and analysis and crucial for understanding the materials, techniques, and technologies used in their production [2]. Accurate identification of fibres provides insight into the type of raw materials available, the environmental conditions, and the economic and cultural practices of the people who produced the textiles. By determining whether fibres are plant-based (e.g., flax, cotton) or animal-based (e.g., wool, silk), researchers can infer specific agricultural and domestication practices and the influence of trade networks in acquiring materials not locally available. The process of fibre identification typically involves microscopic examination and instrumental analysis methods such as Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), and polarized light microscopy. These techniques allow for the detailed observation of fibre structure and morphology, which helps distinguish between different types of fibres. Hana Lukesova and Bodil Holst write about the identification of plant fibres with Optical Microscopy (OM) and SEM, how to present the results and avoid pitfalls. Jenni A. Suomela, Mira Viljanen, Kirsi Svedström, Krista Wright and Sanna Lipkin explore the identification of cotton fibres by the application of OM, SEM, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and Wide-Angle X-ray Scattering (WAXS).

The identification of constituent materials of textiles and their decorative elements relies heavily on advanced analytical techniques [3, 4]. These methods allow researchers to determine their composition, providing critical insights into the technologies, resources, and cultural practices. Analytical techniques are particularly valuable because textiles and their decorations are often fragile and deteriorated. Analyses therefore afford a condition assessment, while also informing appropriate conservation strategies. On that note, the application of non-invasive or minimally invasive methods is essential. Alireza Koochakzaei and Omid Oudbashi apply numerous analytical techniques on a brocade belt belonging to the Qajar courtiers in Iran, finding that low-cost materials were used in the manufacture of clothing for the lower levels of the Qajar court. A multi analytical techniques’ approach is also followed by Christina Margariti, Gabriela Sava, Ina Vanden Berghe and Daphne Filiou to shed light on the provenance of an excavated assemblage with textile and leather finds, discovering it belonged to a Byzantine from North Greece with connections to India and/or China. Ruochen Ge, Lili Cong, Yongping Fu, Bing Wang, Guiyun Shen, Bing Xu, Mingzhou Hu, Han Yu, Jie Zhou and Lu Yang follow a multi-faceted techniques methodology on the silk fabrics of a Liao Dynasty DiwXie belt and pouch suggesting that silk fabrics with high specifications were one of the manifestations of the distinguished status of the tomb owner. Ina Vanden Berghe, Marina Van Bos, Maaike Vandorpe and Alexia Coudray, applied macro-X-ray fluorescence (MA-XRF) mapping for the investigation of Bishop Jacques de Vitry’s mitres and fragile medieval reliquary purses from Namur (Belgium). This non-invasive technique proved to be very successful in the identification of various constituent materials and also as a screening tool for further sampling and analysis.

The analysis of dyes in heritage textiles is crucial as it provides insight into the technological, cultural, and economic practices of past societies. Dyes, being an integral part of textile production, not only reveal information about the aesthetics and symbolism associated with color in different cultures but also offer clues about the resources and trade networks available at the time. Understanding what materials were used to produce specific colors, can highlight the economic and social significance of textiles, including their role as luxury items, status symbols, or ceremonial garments. Dye analysis can trace the origins and spread of dyeing techniques across different regions and cultures. The presence of specific dyes in a textile can indicate long-distance trade connections or cultural exchanges between regions, contributing to the understanding of ancient trading routes and the globalization of textile technologies. Analytical techniques such as High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) and spectroscopic techniques, allow for the precise identification of organic compounds in dyes, even in minute amounts [5,6,7]. Dye analysis is also important for dating textiles and identifying provenance and/or trade routes, as the use of certain dyes can be correlated with specific time periods and geographical areas. Furthermore, dye analysis also informs textile conservation strategies. By understanding the chemical composition and degradation mechanisms of dyes, conservators can develop appropriate methods of intervention and preservation. Paula Nabais, Jane Malcolm‑Davies, Maria João Melo, Natércia Teixeira and Beatrice Behlen applied microspectrofluorimetry coupled with HPLC–MS and managed to identify the dyes in 15th–16th c. AD knitted caps that had lost their original colour. Caelin P. Celani, Ilaria Degano, Carolyn Chen, Olivia Jaeger, Amelia M. Speed, Karl S. Booksh and Jocelyn Alcántara‑Garcia explore the potential of Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy (FORS) as an alternative to the destructive HPLC technique and find that FORS adequately identifies visual information, which shows reasonable correlation to HPLC-validated dye recipes, a result that warrants further investigation of the technique.

Radiocarbon dating of textiles is a critical tool in archaeology and heritage science, as it provides precise chronological information about textile artifacts. The organic nature of textiles makes them ideal artefacts for radiocarbon dating (14C) [8]. Knowing the exact age of a textile helps researchers place it within its historical, cultural, and technological context, revealing insights into the development of textile production, trade networks, and the evolution of weaving techniques over time. Accurate dating also assists in verifying the authenticity of textile artifacts, particularly in cases where historical records or stylistic analyses alone are insufficient. Textiles dated by the 14C method have enabled the establishment of chronological frameworks for regions lacking pottery seriation [9] and the authentication of artefacts lacking provenance information [10]. Gregory D. Smith, Victor J. Chen, Amanda Holden, Negar Haghipour and Laura Hendriks applied two destructive techniques, dye analysis and radiocarbon dating, on the material extracted from one sample and found it successfully worked without interference with the results of either analysis. Christina Margariti, Gabriela Sava, Tiberiu Sava, Mathieu Boudin and Marie-Louise Nosch explored the efficiency of radiocarbon dating on excavated textiles preserved at different conditions and found that the introduction of foreign matter like consolidants greatly affect the results, mineralisation may inhibit dating, whereas carbonisation does not have any significant effects in radiocarbon dating.

CT (Computed Tomography) scanning is an innovative, non-destructive technique increasingly applied to the study of archaeological and historic textiles. Medical imaging techniques like micro-computing imaging (μCT) and computed Tomography (CT) have long been used for the study of mummified remains [11, 12]. This advanced imaging technology allows researchers to visualise the internal and external structures of textiles in great detail without physically altering or damaging the fragile artefacts. By producing high-resolution, three-dimensional images, CT scanning reveals complex weave patterns, fiber orientations, and construction details. Such insights are often impossible to gain through traditional analysis methods, especially when dealing with delicate or highly degraded textiles. One of the major advantages of CT scanning is its ability to penetrate and image through multiple layers of textiles, which is particularly useful for examining bundled or rolled textiles found in archaeological contexts. This method enables researchers to understand the original shape, folding patterns, and even repair techniques used. Additionally, CT scanning can detect internal features such as embedded foreign materials or decorative elements like metallic threads, beads, or dyes, offering a comprehensive view of the textile’s composition. The non-invasive nature of CT scanning makes it an invaluable tool for the conservation of heritage textiles, ensuring that their structural and visual integrity is preserved while still allowing for detailed analysis and study. Sanna Lipkin, Ville‑Pauli Karjalainen, Hanna‑Leena Puolakka and Mikko A. J. Finnila applied CT to archaeological textiles from Finland and managed to produce 3D images of the artefacts, even of hidden parts that could not have been revealed by other methods, and to digitally remove soil deposits, while μCT enables technological analysis and fibre identification of small textile fragments.

Virtual reconstruction of cultural heritage objects involves using digital technologies to recreate, visualise, and interpret artifacts and cultural landscapes that may be partially or entirely lost, damaged, or inaccessible. Through techniques like 3D modeling, photogrammetry, and laser scanning, researchers and conservators can create accurate, high-resolution digital replicas of heritage objects and structures [13,14,15]. These virtual reconstructions enable immersive and interactive experiences, allowing the public and scholars alike to explore and engage with cultural heritage in innovative ways. Virtual reconstruction is particularly valuable for educational and preservation purposes. It allows for the detailed study of artifacts and sites without physical handling, minimizing risk to fragile objects. Additionally, it supports the restoration process by providing reference models and historical context. Virtual reconstructions can also serve as crucial records, ensuring that cultural knowledge and heritage are preserved and accessible for future generations, despite physical loss. Davit Gigilashvili, Hana Lukesova, Casper Fabian Gulbrandsen, Akash Harijan and Jon Yngve Hardeberg reviewed computational methods for the virtual reconstruction of archaeological textiles. They consider their applications and limitations, based mainly on the inherent characteristics of archaeological textiles like extensive loss and material from different objects, and propose automated technological analysis and the development of relevant databases as the first step in possible solutions. Jane Malcolm-Davies approaches the subject of reconstruction from a more physical viewpoint and argues that accurate reconstructions demand interdisciplinary collaboration: the interrogation of fibres at the molecular level; the collection of observational data at the micro level; and the study of how garments were made and worn at the macro level.

Textiles and textile-related materials are vital sources of information reflecting the interaction of resources, technology, and society. The complexity of textile production, from the selection of raw materials to the development of advanced weaving techniques, highlights the technological sophistication of the time and peoples that produced and consumed them. However, due to their organic nature, textiles are often poorly preserved, making instrumental analysis crucial for their study. It has, in fact, revolutionised textile research, enhancing our understanding of heritage textiles and facilitating their preservation. As heritage science continues to develop, integrating new technologies and interdisciplinary approaches, the study of textiles will undoubtedly progress, offering further insights into the cultural, economic, and technological landscapes of the past.